The septuagenarian Elsa Peretti just recently announced that
her relationship with Tiffany & Co. will continue for another two decades. Speculators
assumed that the celebrated artisan would retire and take the rights to her
designs with her. Tiffany & Co. went to get length to avert this near-fatal
blow to their inventory of collections. What makes this jewelry designer so
desirable that the powerhouse would pay a large sum to be the sole licensee of her creations?
Peretti first made the news in the 1970s. Already with
Tiffany, her designs were so beloved that even Andy Warhol was surprised by the
demand her baubles had generated. Onlookers noticed that her jewelry was not
spectacular in an ostentatious way but rather drew in the customer with
attractive shapes and striking simplicity. Before bringing her talent to
Tiffany, she honed her craft with Halston and Sant’Angelo. Keeping a firm
finger on the pulse of a generation, she created pieces that were earthy yet
also in keeping with the disco movement.
By 1974, her Tiffany collection had become world-famous and
was considered de rigueur for the young and famous. Stars of disco and the
movies would clamor to wear her jewels. Declaring her unwillingness to design
status symbols, she endeared herself to the jewelry-buying public by actively
courting the average jewelry buyer with her high-end but still frequently affordable
designs.
Outdoing herself once again in 1977, the jewelry designer
introduced the Peretti diamond cut. Over the decades, the artisan continued to
deliver chic fashion accessories that called for highest-quality diamonds and
gems. Nevertheless, she never lost sight of her dedication to simple lines and
understated elegance.
Abhorring the overdone nature of jewelry ensembles, Peretti
is now famous for her simple creations that feature bean shapes, shells and
hearts. Teardrops are one of the designs for which she is famous around the
world. In an interview with Time,
the legendary artisan revealed that the pieces she designed were something she
would wear herself. In fact, she has modeled plenty of her own pieces while out
on the town.
Reminiscing about her rise to stellar fame, she recalls the
advice she received from Halston and others. Keeping her jewelry affordable for
the working woman was difficult, but Halston reminded her to simply make pieces
in different sizes that would then translate into more affordable choices as
well as exclusive pieces that would appeal to the luxury buyer.
Of course, the designer also takes the time to reminisce
about her work ethic. Exceedingly disciplined and in tune with her creativity,
she does admit that designing great jewelry cannot be done on demand.
Considering it a process of flow, she takes inspiration when she can get it.
One thing that has always helped her is to envision not just the jewelry wearer
but also a space in which items would be worn or used.
At Peter Suchy Jewelers, we carry many Elsa Peretti pieces
so we invite you to stop by our showroom located at 1137 High Ridge Road in
Stamford Connecticut. Or, browse some of Elsa’s designs in our eBay store.
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our amazing Pinterest Boards!
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